Cheetah Park, Day 59

Posted on 15/01/2011 by admin

Namibia has one of the largest populations of cheetahs in all of Africa.  Because of their population numbers they are found outside of the National Parks and come onto local farms and kill livestock.  This upsets local farmers and they shoot cheetahs that are found on their properties.  Some farmers have tried to prevent the killing of cheetahs and offer their services in trapping the cheetahs and allowing the cheetahs to live on their properties.  It is not the most natural way for the cheetahs but it is better than letting the cheetahs get shot.  Generally cheetah populations are low throughout Africa and some years ago it was thought that they might become extinct.  This did not occur to the amazement of scientist and their numbers have increased.  However the cheetah population is still considered vulnerable with inbreeding being a real concern.  The efforts of these Namibian farmers may help sustain and even improve the genetic pool of wild cheetahs.

So let us get into the fun stuff, patting one of the three cheetahs that the properties owners have in their backyard, and get very close to these animals for outstanding photos.  We listen to them purr and enjoy their interest in us with licking and rubbing.  Then the cats get fed and it is time to leave them alone and let them eat in peace or. . risk get yourself a cheetah love bite!

The last activity is to visit the wild cheetah that reside in one of the paddocks.  We enter in bakkies (pickup/ute) and get surrounded by about 20 hungry cheetahs.  They chirp,  squeak,  hiss and growl at each other until they are fed.   Some cheetah actually get very upset and fights can break out between them.  It is a very exciting few minutes until the cheetah all get their food and run back into the cover of the vegetation and out of our view.  There are no complaints from the guys about the afternoon.  What else would you be doing on a Tuesday afternoon?  Who thought you would be patting a cheetah.

Tip of the Day: They may look and act like large domestic cats but a cheetah is not your average pet.

Posted in a) 14th Nov 2010 Absolute Safari on Shaggy, Denis | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Etosha National Park, Day 57, and 58

Posted on 14/01/2011 by admin

Etosha National Park is the best National park in Namibia to see game.  However in the rainy season like anywhere else in Africa, spotting game becomes more of a challenge.  It all comes down to the 2 essentials you need in Africa,  patience and time.  If you have these you will be rewarded and you will see game. And we did see game, and game that cannot be seen anywhere else on this safari such as springbok and oryx.  These two animals are specialists in dry desert country, which for most of the year is what Etosha National Park is, very, very dry.  But for the next few months the park is green and lush with grass and other vegetation. We saw plenty of game, impala, kudu, eland, springbok, oryx, giraffe, elephant, lion, and we also saw the rare black rhino,  not once but twice!

Did I mention that Namibia is also a great place to try out local game meat? Oh yeah!! And let me tell you those cute springbok are tasty animals.  However our animal for consumption tonight was kudu marinated and in kebab form.

The last morning we challenged ourselves to see one of the big cats, unfortunately we didn’t see them even though the night echoed their calls.  We did see lots of jackal, however not the one that came to the truck the previous night and stole a bag of breakfast cereal!

Our mornings top encounter went to a Black Rhino we saw munching on the Acacia bushes.  Smaller than the White Rhino,  about a ton lighter,  however still a spectacular sight considering its rarity.  It is a hard animal to spot as it prefers solitude and the cover of thick vegetation and it was a great way to finish our final game drive in Etosha National Park and our final game drive on tour.

Tip of the Day: Don’t sleep during game drives you may miss something.

Posted in a) 14th Nov 2010 Absolute Safari on Shaggy, Denis | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Bushman’s Reservation, Day 56

Posted on 11/01/2011 by admin

The previous day we entered Namibia,  which was previously known as South West Africa when it was part of South Africa, and before that as one of Germany’s few colonies.  The country only broke away from South Africa in 1990 after many long years of conflict for independence.  As a country the scenery is spectacular and maybe some of the best in Africa. It is diverse in its environments and our journey will take us through bush, beaches, dunes and deserts. It is also very sparsely populated, only 1.8 million people live in Namibia, so there are times when you can almost go through a whole day and not see another vehicle on the road.

Our first Namibia experience is the San, or Bushmen people.  It is a dying culture and there may not be more that 3000 San people living a traditional life in all of Africa.  They have been pushed out of every niche they inhabited including the inhospitable climate of the Kalahari and now have to reside in reservations.  So we try and visit these people and get a glimpse of how they used to live and how they are capable of surviving in the bush of Africa.

The other great thing about this campsite is the kids.  They are fearless little devils that will try anything for a laugh and a bit of fun.  They play with us (and our football) for hours.  They take photos with our cameras and pose like gangsters trying to look as cool as they can.  We try and entertain them with things they may not get regularly, like balloons.  It’s a great afternoon and evening watching and playing with the kids.

Did I ever mention that overlanding was an experience like no other? Have you heard of the term T.I.A.? This is Africa?  Well sometimes in Africa things happen that are out of your control and we experienced that on the day we left the Bushman’s reservation.  We got bogged!  Not your average bog but a big fat African BOG!  If you are going to do things,  do them properly once or don’t do it at all.  So we experience team work, t he coming together of people to achieve a common goal.   So, we come together and dug Eeyore out of the sand and got her back on the road.  Not without the help of about 20 Bushman, 20 kids and a few dogs.  All in all it ended up being a good experience for the guys and gave a taste of what Overlanding used to be like several years ago.

Tip of the Day: If you are going to dig out a truck, do it properly the first time.

Posted in a) 14th Nov 2010 Absolute Safari on Shaggy, Denis | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Okavango Delta, Days 52 – 54

Posted on 09/01/2011 by admin

The next highlight of the safari and the major tourist attraction of Botswana, is the unique inland Okavango Delta.  The Kavango River has water feeding into it from a massive catchment area in Angola and eventually travels downstream till it gets to the depression in the earth that has helped to create the Okavango Delta.   It is truly a unique place, nowhere in the world would you see such an ecosystem.  The thousands of islands are made from the movement of sand by the river during the constant fluctuations of the river level, the termite mound construction, the tree growth and hippo movement.  On these island animals migrate taking what vegetation they can and in the dry season getting the only available water in town!

There are a few ways of getting a glimpse of the Delta. One of these is by mokoros, the local canoe that the local tribes use to get through the Delta.  The Delta has 5 main rivers however the majority of the water in the Delta is in small tributaries and the best mode of travel for the local tribes is by these native canoes.  Another option is to travel by plane, an get a unsurpassed view of 18 thousand sq km of this unique environment.  Alternatively you can travel by 4X4 into the depths of the Delta system and to Moremi Game Reserve.   For the next three days we split up and each do the activities that most tickle our fancy. No matter what you do however it is going to be hot.

It is also time to say good bye to more friends. We lose more people before and after the Delta and it is time to say adios amigos!  Till next time. Martin, Kelly, Naomi and Becs it was a pleasure to have you on the trip.

Chain of Shame: Becs

Tip of the Day: Sunscreen, Shirt and Hat, its damn hot!!

Posted in a) 14th Nov 2010 Absolute Safari on Shaggy, Denis | Tagged , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Chobe River, Day 50

Posted on 08/01/2011 by admin

After excess adrenaline and excess partying it was time to leave Vic Falls and Zim behind.  Zimbabwe was great to us and we saw and did alot of activities during those days so it was sad to say goodbye.  However it was time to get on with the safari and head into our next country, Botswana.

After the last few days it was pleasant just to take it easy with an afternoon game cruise on the Chobe River.  Chobe River is part of the Chobe National Park and a great place to see elephants.  It has been said that there are close to 100 000 elephants living or migrating into the park.  The river also feeds into the Zambezi River and for those that do the cruise they can almost touch Namibia as the Caprivi Strip of Namibia is just on the other side of the river.

The day is chilled out. We get used to a new country and the warmer weather. It’s getting hot now.  But that should be expected, we are heading into desert country.

Chain of Shame:              Gracie (author)

Tip of the Day: I know you can get a handful of condoms from the counter at immigration, please take this generosity seriously!

Posted in a) 14th Nov 2010 Absolute Safari on Shaggy, Denis | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Victoria Falls over New Years, Day 48 and 49

Posted on 07/01/2011 by admin

The Victoria Fall on the Zambezi River are located on the boundary between Zimbabwe and Zambia and are a major highlight on the trip.   It is where you do those crazy adrenaline activities that can scare the pants off you.  Such things at white water rafting, bungee jumping, gorge swings, devils pool, abseiling, helicopter flights, micro lights and the list goes on and on.  People come to the Falls to do many activities that make them squeal like a little girl.  However the falls itself is a spectacular sight.

The first westerner to discover the falls and name it after Queen Victoria was the famous explorer and geographer Dr David Livingstone.  His name appears throughout the areas he travelled, Livingstone Road, Livingstone Town, Livingstonia, etc. etc.  The man got around and was quite popular with the local tribes and his legacy can be seen regularly in our travels of this area.  His passion was for Africa and the continent eventually took his life.  This man was loved by the people and before this body was sent back to England his heart was buried in the earth of Africa where his passion lied.

There is no better way to finish a year than to do something that will get the hairs on the back of your neck standing on end.  So for a few of us the best thing to do was the Devils pool or Devils arm chair.  At this time of the year, when the water level on the Zambezi is on the increase it is a harrowing experience.  Why? The water is getting higher and the current stronger and it is challenging just to get out to the pool. And once sitting on the pools edge you spend all your time holding on to the rock so you don’t get sucked over the edge and change your Devils pool experience into a once in a lifetime bungee jump from 111m high with no bungee cord!   We all made it back with a few extra grey hairs and were all grateful that the experience was over.  It is once in a life time stuff and exactly what is needed to complete a year in the most fulfilling way.  It also makes that cold beer taste like you really deserve it.

Did I mention New Years Eve?  Victoria Falls town was heaving when we got there.  A 2 day music festival was organised starting from the 30th Dec and finishing in the early hours of the 1st Jan 2011.  And yes we were part of that celebration and wasn’t it a blast.  After spending a day either being flipped around on a raft on the mighty Zambezi river,  jumping off a cliff for a little swing,  or hanging at the edge of the falls in a pool, the festival was a final bonus at the end of  a great day.  However what happens on a New Years Eve stays in the memories of those who were there and all I can say is there were some laughs, hugs and experiences that will remain with us for some time.  Happy New Year guys!!!

Unfortunately we had to say goodbye to more of our friends, Carl, Debs, Christine and Annie.  Enjoy the rest of your travels and for those Kiwis,  I’ll see you in NZ when Australia wins the Rugby World Cup!  Cheers guys.   We also welcomed 5 new people who joined us in Vic Falls.

Tip of the Day: You should never repeat what happens at a NYE celebration!

Posted in a) 14th Nov 2010 Absolute Safari on Shaggy, Denis | Tagged , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Matopos National Park, Day 46

Posted on 31/12/2010 by admin

We leave Antelope Park early to make it early to Bulawayo & the Matopos National Park.  The park is just outside the city of Bulawayo and the park is not much larger than 100SqKm.  It is where Cecil Rhodes is buried and the birth place of the Scout movement.  The park has the largest density of leopard in Africa and is home to the both black and white rhinoceros.

We start the day with a highly informative talk at one of the many ancient bush paintings that exist within the park. Our guide for the day, Ian Harmer, from ‘African Wanderer’ is extremely passionate about the park its history and wildlife within it.  This passion rubs off on the guys and they are glued to every word he says.   Well, the dude must not be too bad if he got voted 4th for the International Guide of the Year Award.  The caves he treats us to were off the beaten track and unknown to the general public and it was a pleasure to be one of the few to visit this historic site and learn about the bushman and their culture.

Anyway, we carry on for the day and visit a village surrounding the park. The people from this village are from the Ndebele tribe and we get told stories by the village chief and let me tell you he is a real character.   His laughter just brings a smile to your face and you cannot help but enjoy his company and hospitality.  His offer on 2 of the single Kiwi girls for marriage was quiet tempting and I know the girls were willing but I just could not work out how I was going to explain that to my boss.    So it was better to decline.

The highlight for the day was the rhino walk.  Ian would get us out of the 4X4 to start trekking rhino on foot and see how close we could get to these prehistoric beasts.  When dealing with wildlife you need patients and if you wait you will be rewarded, and rewarded we were!  We saw two adolescent white rhinos, a male and female, at about 15m away and then just before we departed the park a lone male white rhino called ‘Gumboots’.  We got within 5m of that wonderful animal.  There are not many things in life that can get the heart racing and being within meters from a two and half ton rhino can really help the blood flow.

As much as the afternoon is about getting close to these wonderful animals there is also a serious side to the encounter.  We get an appreciation of the animal but also the threat they are under.  We see the carcass of an adolescent female rhino that had been poached only 2 months earlier. This park is highly guarded with patrols 24 hours a dayand yet poaching is still taking rhinos every year.  The park only has 64 white rhinos and 34 black rhinos and in the last year they have lost 5 rhino to poaching.  Worldwide poaching of these animals is on the increase and the value of their horns is also increasing and therefore threatening their future existence on our planet.   As we learned more about the species and their plight we appreciated our experience even more as we realised that these magnificent animals may not be around in the near future.

We ended the day with a greater understanding and appreciation for Matopos National Park, the local tribe, the bushman culture and the struggle of the white and black rhino.  Even though it was an early start and a long day I know it was a day that everyone thoroughly enjoyed.

Tip of the Day: If you get the chance to see rhinos in the wild, do it.

Posted in a) 14th Nov 2010 Absolute Safari on Shaggy, Denis | Tagged , , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Antelope Park, Day 44 and 45

Posted on 30/12/2010 by admin

Why go to the Antelope Park?  Are people really that interested in looking at Kudu, Impala, Zebra and Wildebeests?  Not really!   The real reason we head there is because it doesn’t really focus on Antelope at all.   It is home to more than 90 lions of all ages and genders.  The Antelope Park is committed to the conservation of lions and they have been breeding these impressive animals for the reintroduction into the wild for many years. However it is not at all about the wonderful work they are doing for the species.   There are activities held here that cannot be done anywhere else in the world.   Lion walks, lion feeding, cub viewing, cub feeding, lion encounters (to observe lions hunting), lion breeding, elephant training, elephant rides, horse rides, game drives and rides, bird watching, canoeing, fishing……it just goes on and on……..

So in answer to “what do people do here?” . . . . . . . they do EVERYTHING!   From starting at 4am in the morning and finishing at 6 to 7pm at night it is a busy day and a half that we spend here and from the expressions on their faces well worth the time and effort.

What are some of the real highlights? Hard to say, but having 9 four year old male lions charging towards you fighting off their brethren and getting within inches of you is quite exhilarating.  Especially when there is only a cyclone wire fence to separate you from the lions as they sprint more than 100 metres in seconds, it is hard to not take a step back when they finally get to the food.

Or, maybe a lion encounter?  Watching lions in the early morning trying to make a kill on the free roaming animals in the park is a unique experience.  Unfortunately we did not get the opportunity to see a kill but that did not stop the heart from racing when we watched 3 lion’s stalk and chase zebra and wildebeest.  Not a bad effort for lions not even 2 years of age and an awesome experience.

Or, is it the walking with lions?  Getting within millimetres of lions up to 18 months old and weighing more than 100kg.   Did I say millimetres? Sorry, you get much closer, you sit next to them and pat them to get that memorable photograph with only a stick and a couple of guides to control them.

There is just so much to go on about at Antelope Park. Whatever people did do in the park it surely gave people the best possible opportunities to get some amazing photos and have some unique experiences. Truly an amazing time had by all.

Tip of the Day: Don’t be afraid just do it!

Posted in a) 14th Nov 2010 Absolute Safari on Shaggy, Denis | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

Xmas Day, Houseboats, Day 42

Posted on 29/12/2010 by admin

Ho, Ho, Ho! It’s Xmas!

Our expectation on the houseboat was to have an enjoyable Xmas on our own, we did not expect to be interrupted by anyone or anything,  just spending time enjoying the lake and laying back eating and drinking.  We were surprised when a baboon decided that our Xmas breakfast was so good that he wanted to join us for his fair share of the meal.   Unlucky for him we had scoffed all the bacon and eggs so he was just left with a hand full of sugar!

After breakfast the real fun began.  We all got our gifts and a fancy dress outfit to be worn for the day. Finally we got to see what the classy outfits we had purchased in Malawi look like on each of us.  Secret Santa’s goodies were and extra surprise!

After our late Xmas lunch we get the opportunity for more fishing another game drive or just chilling around the pool. When I mean pool it is more of an oversized bathtub, but great for a dip during the heat of the day.   So some people caught fish,  some got chased by hippos during the game cruise and some hung out by the pool and watched a crocodile jump out of the water and snatch a stork from the shore.   All excitingly different from a “normal” Xmas day.    And if that was not enough, there were some more shenanigans around the pool when the water pistols and water bombs came out just before our late afternoon snacks.

It is safe to say that it will be a Xmas that all that were onboard will remember for years to come.

Tip of the day: Make sure you pick your alliances carefully. Sometimes it is too tempting to throw a water bomb at your compatriot just for the sheer pleasure of it.

Posted in a) 14th Nov 2010 Absolute Safari on Shaggy, Denis | Tagged , , , , , , , , | 1 Comment

Xmas Eve, Lake Kariba, Day 41

Posted on 29/12/2010 by admin

The previous day was spent in preparation for our time on Lake Kariba.   We spent hours shopping for food for Xmas,  the Houseboat trip and Xmas gifts for secret Santa.  We left Lusaka on Xmas eve to make a border crossing into Zimbabwe and headed straight to Lake Kariba bay and jump on the Houseboat.

The border post at Kariba between Zambia and Zimbabwe is unique in that its border is the dam wall which created the lake.  It was constructed in the 50’s when Zambia and Zimbabwe were still part Northern and Southern Rhodesia.  It is fed by the mighty Zambezi River (which we will encounter in the near future when we get to Victoria Falls). This border is an impressive sight.

Our first hours on the Houseboats are spent either fishing off the houseboat, a game cruise to see the surrounding wildlife, or just taking in the sunset with a cool drink in hand. It’s all relaxation and chilling out as we wait for our cooks to bring out our scrumptious dinner.

Day 40 was Margo’s turn for the chain of shame

Tip of the Day: It is hard to buy a Xmas gift worth just 5USD so take your time.

Posted in a) 14th Nov 2010 Absolute Safari on Shaggy, Denis | Tagged , , , , , , , | Leave a comment